Interview: Anastasia Garcia

If you’ve been following Playful Promises for any length of time, you’ll probably have noticed how femme empowerment and diversity is extremely important to us. We’re constantly striving to expand our size range and options, as well as featuring a wide range of our customers on our social media. Which is why, when it came to needing a photographer for our Hunter McGrady swimwear collaboration, we were extremely excited by Anastasia Garcia’s portfolio!

Not only is Anastasia an amazing photographer, but her portfolio is full of diverse, beautiful people that have stepped in front of her lens. Having worked with Hunter before, and well-versed in shooting plus size campaigns and models (including Tess Holliday, Ashley Graham, Iskra Lawrence, Danielle Brooks and more), she was the perfect choice.

Watch the behind-the-scenes video of the shoot here, and check out the stunning results here!

Want to find out more about Anastasia? She was kind enough to answer a few questions about her work, body positivity, and how the industry is changing.

Could you tell us a little bit about your photography and how long you've been shooting?

I'm a fashion photographer, and body activist based in New York City. I’ve been shooting for eight years. I am passionate about creating imagery that celebrate women in a variety of shapes, sizes, races, and abilities. My photography is a tool to help empower women, and encourage women to love themselves, and to love their bodies. It’s my hope that my imagery will inspire, and serve the people viewing it, instead of damaging them, as so much fashion imagery has done. 

What drives you to photography?

Above all, photography is my chosen medium for artistic expression. I went to art school, and learned first and foremost how to be an artist. Photography has always been a way for me to express my perspective of the world.  To illustrate the world (or in my case women, and fashion) how I see it.

As a female photographer, do you find the photography industry inclusive? 

No, I don’t find this industry to be inclusive. We’re starting to see more diverse models popping up in magazines, and in campaigns. (I put emphasis on the word starting, because we still have SO far to go.) But we aren’t talking about diversity behind the lens. The photography industry is very much a white male dominated industry. People of color are largely left out (as creatives), and plus size folks are also left out.  The industry truly needs to become more inclusive behind the scenes. We need people who can authentically speak to different experiences, to be seated at the table. 

There's such a wonderful, diverse range of body shapes/types in your portfolio, could you tell us more about this?

I am a plus size woman, who grew up looking at fashion magazines, films, music videos etc. For most of my life I hated myself because I didn’t fit into a mold of what was “conventionally beautiful” (read: thin). I began dieting at 12 years old, so I could look more like the girls in the magazines, or on TV. I felt flawed and disgusting for so much of my life. When I began my education as a photography student, I knew that I loved fashion. I knew that I wanted to make the type of inspiring images I was seeing in the most influential fashion magazines. And moving through my education, I understood that fashion models looked “a certain way”. I understood that if I wanted to “make it,” I would have to shoot a specific-sized woman (read: size 0-2). Another body type didn’t feel like an option. In the beginning, I didn’t care. I just wanted to be a well-known fashion photographer, like Annie Leibovitz. It wasn’t until I was presented with the opportunity to speak up for plus size women, at work, that I realized I needed to re-evaluate who I was shooting, and why. From that moment on I began shifting the focus of my lens to include a more diverse range of bodies, and races. I realized that as a photographer I had a responsibility to not continue to perpetuate the same destructive (and unrealistic) beauty standards that damaged me growing up. It’s been eight years, and I haven’t turned back since. I believe all shapes, sizes, races, abilities, and ages are beautiful. I think it’s time media reflect the beautiful and diverse people of this world. 

What advice would you give to plus size women getting in front of the camera?

It’s easier said than done…  but don’t over think it. The camera can read everything…  so just have fun! Learning how to be a great model takes years of practice. It’s all a process of trial and error… so try to enjoy the process and just have fun!

How do you think the fashion industry could make plus size women feel included?

By including us more! Put us in magazines, and not just in a small image front of book. Give us covers. Gives us 8-page fashion spreads. Cast us in films, and TV shows…. and not as “the poor fat girl”. Let’s create media together that tells our stories, and showcases our beauty. 

I also believe the fashion industry could be more conscious not just about the women they put in front of the camera, but also the talent they hire behind the scenes. We don’t JUST need more visibility of plus bodies (although more of that please), we also need more body diversity behind the scenes.

FOLLOW ANASTASIA ON INSTAGRAM, AND SHOP THE HUNTER MCGRADY X PLAYFUL PROMISES COLLECTION HERE

Ageless Fashion

Last year we launched an ongoing Ageless Fashion campaign, challenging our society's obsession with youth by working with 2 models in their late 60's, Lina and Pam - check out the images and find out more here and here.

Continuing the campaign, we recently worked with the amazing Karen (50) on her first sultry lingerie shoot! 

Karen wears the Carlota Basque, Isadora Brief and Bettie Page Leopard Robe

We knew we just had to work with Karen after first spotting her amazing, fun style on instagram, and teamed up for a shoot at the beautiful Courtesan (we can also attest to their delicious food and cocktails!).

Karen told us:
I’m a 50 Year Old woman... very much in charge of my own style and identity! I’m very sad to say that as I get older I realise the emphasis on younger women in any part of the media related industry. My partner and I have been modelling for a short while, and generally he gets picked to star alongside a much younger woman. I think that it obviously sells... this older guy/young pretty thing ‘look’. But I think it’s a little sad... older woman look sexy... cool... stylish... in control... do we scare these men??!! 

Karen wears the Bettie Page Red Corsolette and Leopard Print Robe, and a hair flower by our friends at Bettie Page Hair

Karen wears the Candace Noir set, and hair flower by our friends at Bettie Page Hair

We Won A UK Lingerie Award!

To our long-standing fans as well as new customers, it may come as no surprise that Playful Promises has a long history dedicated to excellent customer service, proliferation of innovative, flirty and quirky designs, and commitment to inclusivity in all of its aspects. So it was with great honour and delight that we felt our work had been recognized when we took away the Small Business of the Year Award at the prestigious UK Lingerie Awards! It is one of the biggest events in the intimate apparel calendar with nominees being voted for by industry representatives, celebrating industry excellence.

Going from strength to strength in the last few years, we have been applauded for our inclusive size range, having expanded it over four times since 2015. Playful Promises was one of the first brands in the UK to offer open-cup bras in plus sizes, and one of the few independent brands to have continually expanded sizing. 

Recognizing a demand, we launched a US warehouse and website in late 2016, which has led to growth both via retail and wholesale. To cater to our ever-growing base of customers and fans, as well as selling online we are happy to say that we are also stocked in over 200 stores and boutiques worldwide.

We are passionate about diversity, and are extremely proud of our achievements that have set us apart from other brands. It is heartening to see that several of our notable campaigns have been met with a lot of positive responses and covered by a large number of media outlets.

In April 2017 we released our Ageless Fashion campaign, working with models in their late 60s to challenge society’s definition of beauty and sexuality. This was picked up by the press (and shortlisted for another UK Lingerie Award for Marketing Campaign), recognizing the need to represent beauty and sensuality in women of all ages, something that has thus far been sorely lacking in the industry.

Following the successful launch of our Curve collection in 2016, partnering with Gabi Fresh, a US influencer and plus size swimwear designer felt like a natural progression in 2017. This extended our size range of up to UK size 28 and bra sizes up to 44G and featured outré, trend-led styles. The collaborative plus size lingerie collection has been a sell-out success and was featured in major national and international press such as Glamour and InStyle, creating a huge media buzz.

Another campaign of significance was shooting our Bettie Page Lingerie brand on non-binary drag queen Violet Chachki, signifying our commitment to inclusiveness of all genders and sexualities. This was the first time a drag queen has fronted a lingerie campaign, something we consider to be quite a break-through in the industry. While ground-breaking, we were very pleased to find that the overwhelming response to the campaign has been a positive and encouraging one, with media outlets such as Vogue.It, Harpers Bazaar and Huffington post reporting extensively on it.

As a brand we are thrilled to be recognized for the work we have done in promoting inclusivity and our commitment to excellence in design.

We are therefore pleased to have been shortlisted for the Best Multichannel Retailer Under £25m Turnover Award at the upcoming Drapers Digital Awards 2018 which will be taking place in April. The awards form part of the wider Drapers Digital Festival which brings together more than 700 professionals to celebrate excellence in the ecommerce industry. We hope you are all wishing us luck!

Lingerie & Identity: How lingerie allows us to live unapologetically in our bodies

Here at Playful Promises we have never been known to shirk away from a challenge, or from controversy. It has always been our aim and brand mission to be as inclusive as possible, pushing and breaking the boundaries of what is considered “safe” and “acceptable” representation in fashion and in lingerie specifically. From working with more people of colour in our campaigns and collaborations (such as teaming up with Gabi Fresh for a collection), to being one of the first independent lingerie brands continuously expanding size ranges, Playful Promises has been unwavering in its dedication to inclusive, intersectional feminism, and being pro-active in the fight against body snark.

Photographing Violet Chachki, the winner of RuPaul’s Drag Race Season 7, was a natural progression of our ethos by including a non-binary model and performer as the face of our latest Bettie Page launch. With her stunning femme-fatale looks and sumptuous vintage styling, it could not possibly have been a better choice, and received an overwhelmingly positive response both from our fans and the press. The outpouring of support has felt validating, heart-felt and enormously gratifying. It also illustrates further, if any illustration was needed, how sorely diverse representation is lacking in the fashion industry.

With this in mind, we asked few non-binary/trans and gender-queer fans about their take on representation, and the role lingerie plays in it. We spoke to Vikki Le, a fashion and graphic designer based in New York; Australian MUA, artist and activist Ruby Allegra; London-based gallery producer and artist Parma Ham; and US-based full-time drag queen Louisianna Purchase - and asked them to share their views on our Violet Chachki-fronted campaign, the importance of inclusivity, and how their lingerie choices help to inform their gender identity.

Vikki Le wearing the Bettie Page Lingerie Emerald Overwire Set

What does non-binary mean to you?

Parma Ham quotes Oscar Wilde in response – “To define is to limit”, adding that “being non-binary is the experience of myself without rigid and enclosing definition”. Ruby elaborated by adding that “my genderfluidity is exactly that – fluid. Just as my identity shifts, so does my knowledge and understanding of what genderfluidity means to me.”

What considerations do you make when choosing lingerie? What do you look for?

“Fancy lingerie is what we as people wear to fulfill other people’s fantasies”, muses Vikki, “I wear it to fulfill mine”. The theme of lingerie representing confidence and sexuality is a recurring one, with Louisianna adding that “Lingerie sets the mood for me. I feel most powerful and seductive in lingerie.” Ruby also highlights the importance of comfort, both physically and mentally – “as a disabled person, lingerie has been a very important part of my work towards radical self acceptance, body positivity and the unlearning of ableist beauty standards”. Both Vikki and Ruby are also quick to highlight the importance of colour in how lingerie makes them feel and in setting the mood.

Parma Ham wearing the Bettie Page Lingerie Hand Print set

 How do you go about styling your look and how do you work lingerie into it?

“Lingerie is either the spotlight or a necessary layer that I never skip!” – Louisianna muses enthusiastically, adding that “lingerie is definitely a staple in my wardrobe”. Parma Ham adds – “The way lingerie frames the body is so important. Well chosen lingerie can transform my boyish body into something highly feminine”.

How important is it to have queer, trans and non-binary visibility in lingerie?

Ruby raises an important question – “If non-binary people, for example only see images of cisgender or binary-gendered people celebrating their bodies through wearing and enjoying lingerie, what message does that send about non-binary or genderqueer bodies?”; adding that “we live in a very heteronormative and cisnormative society, which often does not respect or acknowledge queer, trans and non-binary identities as being real, valid or worthy.” Vikki adds another important point, pointing out that “we are more than just victims or sexual fantasies”. Louisianna adds that the importance of representation is a useful tool in breaking down stereotypes and current societal boundaries. Parma Ham elaborates, commenting on the current state of global affairs, adding that “Right now everyone under the trans and queer umbrella needs as much visibility and as many positive narratives as possible. Seeing queer people in lingerie is a gentle reminder that we too are human, we too are beautiful and desirable”. 

Louisianna Purchase wearing the Bettie Page Lingerie Leopard Overwire set, photo by Ruby Knight

What would you like to see more of from lingerie/clothing companies? How can they be more inclusive?

Vikki states categorically that what they see to be a current trend is “more than just an image, it’s a movement and if you’re a good ally then make sure to give us the platforms to share our stories and visibility.” This point could not have been echoed strongly enough among the rest of our respondents, with Parma Ham emphasizing the importance of using genderqueer and non-binary models not simply as tokens. “Reducing the use of gender-specific language, and perhaps incorporating more gender neutral vocabulary” is a simple yet far-reaching change that any brand can implement, Ruby suggests. “I would love to see more bodies, ALL bodies in lingerie”, adds Louisianna, “It's important that they can feel fabulous too.”

How is lingerie important to your identity?

“Lingerie sets the mood for me. I feel most powerful and seductive in lingerie”, muses Louisianna; the theme of lingerie representing confidence and sexuality is a recurring one, with Vikki adding that “it’s a whole act of seduction and power”. Furthermore, there is no denying the transformative power of lingerie, with Parma Ham noting that “I value the power of transformation, and the freedom to not commit to either masculinity or femininity, this is where I feel most comfortable.” Vikki goes as far as describing the act of wearing lingerie as an “act of rebellion”, since wearing lingerie was not something they were always able to do throughout their life. Lingerie, it appears unanimously, represents both strength and freedom.

How do you foresee the Violet Chachki fronted Bettie Page campaign being received by others?

Ruby sees it as a “really great, refreshing step towards visibility and representation for sexually and gender diverse people”, with Parma Ham adding that it’s another kick to the rigidity of the binary – “I think everyone can benefit from society being less strict on what you can and cannot wear.” Louisianna reiterates its importance in breaking boundaries for LGBTQIA folks.

Ruby Allegra

It is evident that the power of representation for socially marginalized groups cannot be overstated, nor can the change come too soon, with Ruby concluding that “sexuality is a huge part of many people’s identities, so denying groups of people the access and means to explore that can be very harmful. A lack of representation can lead to isolation and serious issues relating to self-esteem, body image and mental health”.

Here at Playful Promises we are hopeful that our contribution to the fight towards greater representation is just one step among countless in the right direction.

Campaign: The Lingerie Addict x Bettie Page Lingerie

Diversity is important. Important in fashion, but especially in vintage reproduction fashion, where women of colour are rarely given representation. Recreating the designs of a past era shouldn't come with the attitudes to match!

When we envisioned our Bettie Page Lingerie line, we didn't want to just trot out the same tired cheesecake tropes that have permeated the repro industry, but to instead take inspiration from what Bettie Page means to us as modern women. Fearlessness, sexuality, confidence. Messages that are even more important for women of colour, and the lack of inclusion in the vintage world speaks volumes.

We've worked with The Lingerie Addict for a long time, being one of her first sponsors. Since then, she's grown her blog to become THE go-to for lingerie, with articles discussing all aspects of the industry. We believe in being transparent with our customers, and Cora's blog has allowed us the platform to write about issues such as the "Made in China bias". She has also been criticized for writing about racism in the industry, as if the two are completely separate - to not see that racism permeates everything is, to put it politely, blind.

With the above in mind, and our thoughts on diversity, it only made sense to us to ask Cora if she'd like to model for Bettie Page Lingerie.

And doesn't she look stunning? Photographing her was wonderful, and we're glad she is as happy with the images as we are! Make sure to check out her blog post where she discusses how black pinups have been hidden and what this collaboration means to her; she's also included fit notes.