They'll Put Your Eye Out - The Iconic Bullet Bra

There is no denying that the fashionable ideal of a human silhouette has never stood still, as a slave to changing fashions and mores of the time, it has undergone countless drastic re-iterations over the centuries. From dramatic crinolines of the 1800s to the flat, androgynous looks of the swinging 20s, and the endless permutations and variations in between; it has constantly been moulded by the dictates of times. One of the clearest examples of this is the ever-changing and evolving shape of the bra over the last century – in particular, the dramatic bullet - or cone - bra!

While popular bra shapes have changed every decade since around the 1900s, it was innovation (both technological and creative) that gave rise to the daring experimentations of the 1950s; the decade that saw the meteoric rise of this dramatic bullet shape. But could contemporary fashion sensibility ever embrace such an exaggerated shape again as fully as it did back then?

The fun and experimental spirit that led to the creation and popularity of a bra shape of such extreme projection was in no small part due to the innovative techniques of the times, with designers competing as to who can come up with the most inventive fabrics, padding and underwiring, giving rise to some extreme structures. This was popularised by virtually every Hollywood star of the time – it’s impossible to think of Marilyn Monroe or Diana Dors and not picture them in what has now been termed the most iconic shape of the time.

The rise and rise of the bullet bra did not appear to stop at fashion, as it became iconic in numerous aspects of popular culture and imagination. It is no surprise that this outrageous and overstated bra shape coincided with the years of technological excitement. The space race fed into the imagination of popular culture, with creature features and b-movies proliferated both in sci-fi film and literature. As the technological discoveries paved the way for futuristic dreams, so they did for this aesthetic innovation in fashion.

While the everyday popularity of the bullet shape does seem to have peaked in the 50s, it by no means stayed there. Who can possibly forget the iconic, awe-inspiring costume created for Madonna by Jean-Paul Gaultier in the 90s? Or think of the revival of all things vintage and pin-up without mentioning the contemporary queen of burlesque that is Dita von Teese, who has frequently favoured theatrical and provocative lingerie, such as the cone bra?

So, can this provocative, daring – and sometimes even seen as aggressive! - bra be as popular again? We certainly think so! With the current proliferation of variety and choice of lingerie, there certainly is enough space for fashionable trends alongside retro pin-up styles that are offered by independent designers and highstreets alike. The trend of underwear-as-outerwear seems to march on unabated since it started to dominate style trends around a decade or so ago, and what better underwear to showcase to the world than the commanding cone bra. Gautier was by no means the only couture designer to embrace this audacious aesthetic – brands from Dolce & Gabbana to Atsuko Kudo bring back countless re-inventions of the bullet bra season after season, and high-street stalwarts such as John Lewis are reporting soaring sales of this shape.

Our Black Bullet Bra

In the current atmosphere of unbridled choice and endless stylistic possibility, the only thing that can limit anyone’s sense of their own panache would be their imagination. Never has there been an easier time to express one’s sense of individual self through style than now, as is evidenced by the speedy sell-out of our own tribute to the cone bra here at Playful Promises. Our popular Bettie Page Lingerie line has just restocked the much-coveted Retro Futuristic bra in classic black, and is joined by a new sumptuously sexy red colourway. Looking for a slightly more subtle shape? The softer bullet bras are also available in black, red, black & peach and teal!

As frequently noted – a T-shirt bra this is most certainly not! It creates a seriously commanding effect and is bound to turn heads, and in a world of endless possibility and choice where other, more demure options are plentifully available (and certainly have their place), why not have fun with your lingerie? And we cannot think of anything more fun than threatening to take a man’s eye out with those things ;)

Help Us Fight Ovarian Cancer

It will come as no surprise to our long-term followers as well as new fans alike that Playful Promises, a proudly feminist and ethical brand, is always on the look-out for ways we can contribute to improving the lives of women and to giving something back.

Over the next month, we will be doing just that, as we will be donating 20% of sales from selected sets (Marlene Wine, Valerie, Audrey, Love and Reina), to two large charities dedicated to fighting ovarian cancer. From 10th of January until 15th of February, the donations will be sent to OCRFA and Target Ovarian Cancer, both leading ovarian cancer charities in the US and UK respectively.

SHOP UK

SHOP US

Ovarian cancer is the fifth most common cancer in women, a type of cancer for which a cure is yet to be found. Each year, almost 22,000 women will be diagnosed with ovarian cancer, and more than 14,000 women will die from it worldwide. A woman's lifetime risk of developing ovarian cancer is about one in 73. These are worrying statistics to be sure, but everyone can get involved to help fight this disease and raise awareness. OCRFA and Target Ovarian Cancer are just two of the large and dedicated organisations doing just that.

OCRFA, Ovarian Cancer Research Fund Alliance, is the largest non-governmental funder for research and advocacy of ovarian cancer in the US, having raised close to $75million towards research and eradication of this devastating disease since 1998. The Alliance is funding top scientists and grantees in their field, who work on finding better diagnosis, more effective treatment, and eventually, a cure. This is achieved through a number of means such fighting for governmental funding – OCRFA has managed to secure about $170 million of annual funding, as well as securing its own fundraising and donation efforts by involving corporate partners, recruiting grassroots advocates and encouraging volunteering and donations. Some of their flagship programmes, such as Woman To Woman, Survivors Teaching Students, and a plethora of grass-roots volunteer schemes, ensure that women have support from the time of diagnosis through to treatment, as well as raising awareness, and encouraging participation in clinical trials.

Source: Target Ovarian Cancer

Target Ovarian Cancer is the UKs leading ovarian cancer charity, which works to further research as well as supporting 7,000 women diagnosed in the UK every year. Target Ovarian Cancer’s campaigns tackle the three biggest barriers to progress: late diagnosis, limited choice of treatments, and the isolation so often felt by women with ovarian cancer. Initiatives such as Pathfinder, and events such as Ovarian Cancer Awareness Month and World Ovarian Cancer Day raise awareness and fight for government-funded national campaigns and increased funding. Furthermore, research projects such as GTEOC study and Interleukin-6 regularly fund ovarian cancer specific research across the whole of the UK. It has already committed over £850,000 to several of the aforementioned projects and continues working with its reputation as an outstanding leader in this field of research. But we can always do more, and we need to do more.

Survival rates from ovarian cancer are much lower than for many other cancers, due to late diagnosis and a lack of effective treatment options. Research into new treatments lags significantly behind other cancer types, such as breast cancer, resulting in thousands of preventable deaths worldwide each year. There is definitely a long way to go - but you can help. Both charities, alongside their lobbying for government funding and corporate sponsorships, are always on a lookout for help and donations from people just like you.

We know that our fans and supporters want to contribute to ethical causes as well as being stylish, and our spotlight on this terrible disease over the next few weeks will allow you to do just that. Our lush new additions, including Marlene in wine, Valerie, Audrey, Love and Reina, will not only make fantastic additions to your lingerie and lounging wardrobes, but will help to continue funding the vital and varied work of the above charities, thus speeding up the day when a permanent cure will finally be found.

Fashion never looked this good. Or this ethical.

Make sure you keep an eye on the symptoms of ovarian cancer, and remember that it cannot be diagnosed via a smear/pap test.

NEW YEAR, NEW LINGERIE!

It's been an amazing year for Playful Promises! One which had many milestones for us as a brand; We shot with retro babe Vintage Vandalizm for our Swim Takeover. We did an Ageless Fashion campaign, featuring models in their late 60s Pam & Lina. We made our first overwire bras for our Bettie Page mini-brand. We launched Playful Promises US, shot with lingerie connoisseur Cora from The Lingerie Addict . We collaborated with plus size blogger Gabi Fresh, and shot our Bettie Page collection on the inimitable Violet Chachki (and broke the internet). To say we've been busy is an understatement! We feel incredibly accomplished and proud, but our work is never done and we're very excited for our new projects in 2018.

And with that, the new year is the perfect time to update your wardrobe and try some new styles. You don't need a total revamp - luckily, we have quite a few pieces that work amazingly to make a drab outfit, fab! The New In Peek & Beau is especially good for styling with outerwear, so take a gander at our outfit ideas to update the pieces you have already in your wardrobe for 2018.

Strap in with a harness!

A little red dress is great - simple, seductive, and can be accessorized however you want. We love the military-themed Tommy harness, and thought the red popping underneath it was the perfect accompaniment. Pair with brushed gold jewelry to match with that lace applique, and make sure to shimmy your shoulders wherever you go to get those tassels twirling!

Pretty in Punk

Bodysuits are a dream to style - just chuck on a skirt and a jacket and you're ready to go! The Margarita body is the perfect accompaniment for a night out, with it's plunging neckline and black lace. We've paired it with a tartan kilt and leather jacket to offset it's feminine charm with edgier pieces.

Modern Vintage

Our brands can be mix & matched together too! The Bettie Page Longline Overwire works perfectly as a bralet to wear outside and with a pencil skirt. Over the top we've zipped up the Kendalle Waspie to enhance that retro hourglass shape and create the illusion of an LBD.

What are your New Years resolutions?

Ethical Fashion

There is no doubt that ethical consumption has become a growing part of the conversation around the textile and fashion industry in recent years.  But how much of this is a trendy buzz-word used by companies large and small to entice increasingly ethically-conscious consumers, and how much of it is authentic, pro-active movement for change?

Debate around the ethics of textiles and fashion is a long-standing and many-fold one. It can however be broken down into two main concerns, namely the increasingly devastating impact it has on the environment, as well as distressing levels of abuse of working conditions and practices of the workers in the developing countries.

As an ethically-conscious brand, Playful promises aims to contribute to affecting real, tangible change. Not only all of our factories ethically audited, but we have also put in the research to ensure that we donate to the very best organisations advocating practical change to communities, countries and aspects of environmental impact that need it most. As a part of this effort, Playful Promises donates boxes – sometimes numbering in their dozens or hundreds, to organisations such as Traid and Giving World Online, both of which have a proven, long-standing record of affecting change in the areas we feel passionate about. We do this several times a year to ensure that our continued, practical support can help make a difference.

Gulafsa embellishing, photo courtesy of Traid

So what change can we, as a fashion brand, affect? Most people have likely, by now, either heard of or have investigated in some depth the impact their consumer choice has on the environment and the working conditions of workers in the developing world. The case is evident none more so than in fashion and textile industry where surplus or unwanted garments are amassed in huge landfills, the environment is being polluted with synthetic fibre, and the workers producing the garments are frequently working in unsafe and unhealthy conditions, often underpaid and being subject to questionable working practices. Women, and frequently, children, bear the brunt of such working conditions, and we could not call ourselves feminist if we were not doing our outmost to improve the working, economic and social conditions of women making our garments for us.

Checking out one of our factories earlier this year. On the left is a machine that makes bra molds and on the right is a technique for ensuring strappy bras are created with accuracy across each size - using a paper pattern!

Traid aims to reduce the negative environmental and ethical impact of the textile industry by working towards the aim of increasing textile recycling for aid and international development. This is achieved through a number of ongoing projects, such as ending child and forced labour use in countries such as India, by encouraging large brands to focus on transparency of their supply chain. While the difficulties of monitoring the entirety of a lengthy production chain of a garment are notorious, funding initiatives such as supply chain mapping ensures that a more ethical change can be affected.

Another successful ongoing project that has been funded by Traid over the last three years has focused on expanding sustainable cotton production in countries such as Ethiopia, by supplying the funding and tools to the farmers to convert to organic, non-GM cotton farming, hence reaping the health, environmental and economic benefits of higher-value Fairtrade cotton. Ethiopia is set to increase its organic cotton production in the coming years, and we here at Playful Promises cannot encourage our fans enough to become ever-more aware as consumers, to check your garment labels and support such initiatives with your purchases. Funding and donations from ethically-conscious and eco-friendly brands like ours make all the difference.

Giving World Online focuses on similar causes closer to home, with their ethos of working towards “a society in which no one is in want because nothing is wasted”. The organisation works with a number of charities and local community groups to redistribute surplus goods from businesses and corporations within the UK, affecting a positive change within poorer UK communities as well as helping to stem the catastrophic rise of landfill sites. And this is where we, as a small brand, feel we can help make a difference.

The last report from Giving World has assessed our last donation, with our contribution of 530 garments coming to the value of £2120, which was able to help 270 women. Supporting women across the world – the members of the workforce who are frequently the most marginalised, underpaid, undereducated and abused - is very much part of our ethos and feminist credentials.

Women supporting other women – however small the business or however seemingly fledgling the initiative -  is one of the best incentives we can think of to affect some real, long-lasting change.

Dead Women Have No Agency: The Objectification of Bettie Page

With that iconic black fringe and cheeky demeanour, Bettie Page is well-known for her provocative imagery. Tongue firmly in cheek and appearing in control of her sexuality, she’s been adored around the world for decades. She ranks within the 10 top earning dead celebrities, the only woman in that list. Fans find Bettie influential in various ways, from feminist statements to vintage enthusiasm; her images and homemade lingerie has often inspired our own work. And so, last year, we jumped at the chance to launch a collaboration with the Bettie Page brand – a collection of lingerie inspired by the iconic woman herself.

Naturally, we looked to classic images of Bettie Page at her most sexy and cheeky; researching all we could about what gives her that multigenerational appeal. We scoured social media for images and read reactions for an insight into just why she’s remained so popular. Working in the lingerie industry, we’re rather used to a certain level of overtly sexual comments, however, Bettie Page images seemed to illicit an even more graphic response.

This had us asking questions about why exactly images of Bettie Page – not dissimilar from our own imagery – were more susceptible to derogatory comments. What does this say about consent when these statements are projected on an image of a now-deceased woman?

Bettie Page is of course an icon in the world of fetishism and cheesecake pin-ups, so it’s natural for her to still be considered a sex icon all these years after her death. Similarly, Marilyn Monroe is often the cover-girl for thinly-veiled misogyny disguised as body-positivity in memes praising “curvy” body types over the bodies of thinner women. Something I very much doubt she’d be in agreeance with!

My initial thoughts on the objectification of these women, and why they are often sexualised even more than their modern counterparts, were that they are no longer around to exercise the right to say no. Often, when we receive comments on our images, the wording implies dissociation with the fact that there’s really a person in that image – something that subconsciously becomes even easier with the knowledge that that person is no longer living. This leads to a very troubling idea of what consent means to some – they can’t say no, therefore it’s okay to do what you like with them. Instead of being seen as real women, they’re commodities for gazing at.

There are other reasons why women of the past may be more commodified than modern women. In the fifties, the idea that women should be subservient was prevalent – the 50’s housewife isn’t just a trope but a reality for many women who had no other options. Men sometimes fetishize this type of woman; someone who will cook, clean, look after the children, whilst maintaining an unrealistic beauty standard and giving in to their partner’s every whim. This submissive woman is seen as “classier” (a frustrating word we encountered often in the comments) than modern females who are much more outspoken, career-driven and educated on their rights as a human being than ever before. What this implies is that the old-fashioned ideal of how a woman should act is more desirable than what the reality is today. The idea that obedience = “classy” is a troubling one. To many, a yes-woman is better than a woman who exercises her right to say no when she feels uncomfortable.

Modern women are compared with women of the past aesthetically as well. We’ve all seen the pictures of Marilyn and other “curvy” 50’s starlets placed next to skinny modern-day models (“only dogs want bones” is the dire phrase that’s trotted out most often – offensive to both women AND men). Men idolize the women of the past for supposedly having put more effort into their appearance, yet belittle modern women for spending time and money on make-up and hair; often seen as vapid and accused of “tricking” men. The pencil skirts, wiggle dresses and tightly-fitted blouses of the 50s are supposedly demure, despite being figure-hugging and often-restricting, and therefore more desirable than the way women dress today. This manages to be yet another way to pit women against each other and hold them up to an unrealistic standard of how they should behave and look.

Stripping agency of these women by hypersexualising and objectifying them promotes a negative idea about consent. Conversations about consent needs to be opened up in order to create a safer environment for women, both online and in real life. Just because a woman doesn’t say no, doesn’t give anybody the right to sexualise or degrade them.

Similarly, just because a photo of a woman is readily available on the internet doesn’t give anyone the right to reduce them to a sexual object. Also, applying negative thoughts to the women that don’t cater to a particular taste is another way to make women feel inferior. We believe in appreciation and encouragement of women no matter their size, shape, or race, and consider them to be individuals rather than objects to be compared and rated on their appearance.