Tailoring the '20s: Boardwalk Empire

I'm a huge fan of epic American tv shows; you know, the ones EVERYONE is talking about. I've obsessed over LOST, I've shunned Heroes, I drooled over Spartacus: Blood and Sand (don't judge me), and of course I've spent hours and hours of my life watching Mad Men. But you know, I'm sick of hearing about the latter. Although brilliant, and full of Jon Hamm, Mad Men is not the ONLY good retro show full of jaw-dropping costumes.

In fact, when it comes to costumes, Mad Men is surely beaten by Boardwalk Empire. There, I said it.

Set in the boom town of Atlantic City, NJ during the prohibition, Boardwalk Empire is as rich a story-line as it is visual. Just finished up with it's second season, with another in production, this Martin Scorsese produced show is BIG budget. The pilot alone cost $30million dollars, and no expense was spared on the clothing.

Costume is a key aspect of the show - in the 1920's clothing was the most important factor for showing social status, as it had been for centuries beforehand. Like many of the personas in Boardwalk Empire, the lead character, Nucky, (played by Steve Buscemi) is based on a real person who was known for being a snappy dresser.

"The wardrobe is incredible, you just put on the clothes and walk on the set and see everyone else in character - you feel like you are there," says Buscemi

 

In this interview with Esquire costume designer John Dunn discusses how he brought out the male characters by tailoring alone.

 

Dunn and his team immersed themselves in the year 1920, contacting vintage clothing dealers, researching tailoring of the period, to ensure complete authenticity. Using real vintage suits just wouldn't cut it; as with most 20's clothing, what has survived is usually too ragged, the cost of restoring the clothing too high. The suits had to be tailored from scratch, using only the fabrics of the era.

Boardwalk Empire is not for the faint-hearted; it delves into the gangster underworld of the prohibition, and in a Scorsese-produced show, you know it isn't going to be all happiness and rainbows. As characters get beaten, murdered and more, multiples of the same suit had to be created, further ruling out authentic pieces.

Accessories and some dresses, on the other hand, are mostly vintage. The team scoured the country looking for original pieces - stockings, coats, gloves, pins.

 The rise of character Jimmy is shown through his clothing - previously the drab khaki of a returning soldier, to a full suit meaning business

 

The most surprising thing about the costumes of Boardwalk Empire is how colourful they are. We are so used to seeing the 20's in black and white, who knew what colours would be in vogue at the time? Using references to colour in magazines along with sketches and swatches of fabric used by tailors, it was obvious that this was an era where manufacturers experimented with dye.

Different characters living in different cities were dressed in different ways. The seaside summer of Atlantic City (the shows key location) has a brighter palette than the elegant, cutting-edge tailoring of the New Yorkers (I'm particularly in love with Arnold Rothstein's wardrobe) or the old-world darker colours of the Chicago-based Italians.

 

The female characters, too, were instantly recognizable by their costume, which also tells the story of the women's part in the prohibition. The dour old-fashioned button-ups of the Temperance League (whose slogan was "Lips That Touch Liquor Shall Not Touch Ours") contrasts against the decadent beading and elaborate patterns of the early flappers. The main female character, Margaret Schroeder, transforms from struggling immigrant to more exquisite locations and thus, dresses. In one scene she wears a green silk evening dress recreated from a sketch by Coco Chanel.

During this era fashion also reflected the changing status of women in society. Going from a corsetted silhouette to rectangular shapes just skimming the body, perfect for showing off beading and decoration. Light fabrics were used to lay thin layers against the body, and women were just starting to wear bras and knickers rather than bloomers.

For the first time in history, clothing started to look like its modern-day counterpart - a 1920's dress could easily look the part on today's fashionista. But what makes these fashions so beautiful is the hand-crafted detail, something which we rarely see now. Dunn points out, "The 1920's was a transition into modern clothes, but with all the embellishments of the past" - and that's exactly why I love it.

 

And just how cute is this image of the Boardwalk Empire girls, shot by Ellen Von Unwerth for Vanity Fair! Perfect for Summer inspiration!

How The Artist used costume to bring the 20s alive

It’s no secret that I’m a big silent movie fan. Give me Chaplin over a modern romantic comedy any day!

So, imagine my delight when film of the year, The Artist, won 5 of the biggies at The Oscars! This modern day silent movie took everyone by surprise, even more so when it began to win big time at each award. It seems there is hope for the audience of the 21^st century, so used to talkies, big effects and Hollywood drama; the silence has proven that it is not a completely alien concept.

I could go on and on about silent films, but I’ll spare you, and focus on the part that has got all the fashionistas’ attention: Costume.

One of the 5 awards it took away on Oscar night was costume design, and there is no wonder why!

Channelling the golden era, costume designer Mark Bridges obviously did his research. Picking and choosing elements from popular styles and silver screen sirens, there must have been a whole host of inspiring designs from the 1920s. Just look at this amazing backless dress worn by Clara Bow:

When looking through the fabulous costumes worn by silent film stars, there is a definite theme running through the pieces: texture. Before the advent of glorious Technicolour, costume designers had to find another way of springing their actors out from the screen, ensuring they didn’t blend into the background. This, too, was the struggle for Bridges; although The Artist was originally filmed in colour, he had to use patterns, crystals, fur, feathers and more to ensure the characters remained the focus when desaturated.

It wasn’t only texture that the team used to really bring out their characters, but they also had some clever tricks up their sleeves for using costume to add narrative. As the rise of talkies begins to dampen George Valentin’s star-studded career, so we see a change in his looks. The actor that played him, the gorgeous Jean Dujardin, suggested to costume designer Mark Bridges that the costumes should just be “a little bigger to reflect that somehow George is less of a man than he was.” They did just that, tailoring the size and style of his suits; from a well fitted tuxedo portraying wealth, grace and success, to a dishevelled loose-fitting suit.

With this attention to detail, the costume worked alongside the narrative, acting talent and cinematography to make a success of a film which could have so easily missed the mark, had any of these things had been less than perfect.  

We also can’t help loving Uggie the dog’s Oscar outfit.

Love Bomb: What Katie Did

Playful Promises and What Katie Did modelled by Tessa Kuragi and Jessica Louise Abidde. Photo by Anna Swiczeniuk, MUA by Cheyenne Raymond.

First on the bill for the Big Love-in is vintage-style brand What Katie Did, specialising in 1940s and 50s style lingerie and corsetry, leading the way in the recent retro trend.

Founded by Katie Halford in 1999, What Katie Did initially began by selling just stockings, particularly the fully-fashioned stockings that have remained popular to this day. Katie’s love affair with 1940s and 50s fashion started in her mid-teens and led her on a hunt for the perfect vintage wardrobe. She soon found that while vintage clothing was easy to come by, underwear was deeming tricky.

Sticking as close to authenticity as possible, What Katie Did’s glamorous bullet bras, delicious shape wear and beautiful stockings are all designed based on vintage patterns, only slightly adapted for the modern woman. Authentic fabrics and old-fashioned production methods are employed to ensure retrophiles are not left disappointed.

Choosing a favourite item from the vast collection is far, far too difficult, but I have to say, I am a sucker for her corsets!

Cabaret Lace Morticia Corset

This addition to the Morticia corset range is perfect for a romantic, sophisticated look. I love the use of lace contrasted against the pink, and the (even more!) slimming effect of the black waistband detail.

Leather Gina Corset

For the times when I’m feeling a little less sophisticated, this leather corset is perfect for a naughty Bettie Page look!

Keep your eyes peeled on the What Katie Did blog for their Lovebomb giveaway of a Cabaret Torsolette (featured above) and Kate knickers, available in black or vintage peach, plus a pair of retro seamed stockings in the winners choice of colour! If that's not enough they are offering 10 runners up prizes of their new 80 denier black hosiery with contrasting red seam (tights or stockings, your choice!), to add a bit of sauce to february. Make sure you sign up to the What Katie Did mailing list to be entered. 

Sizzling swimwear: How to stay on trend this Summer

If you really think about it, Summer is just around the corner. No really, we are already in January, we got the hardest part over with and now we just have to gradually peel off our layers and cardigans for the next few months. Magazine’s have already started telling you what to cut out in order to get that “Beach Body” (we like you just as you are, thank you very much) and new swimwear is all the rage.

So what kind of prints and colours will you find gracing the shelves this summer?

Swimwear often mirrors current trends in fashion and lingerie, so it’s no wonder that bikini waists are high and prints are inspired by retro classics to coincide with the vintage trend. Embracing curves is one major theme of retro inspired swimwear; details such as cinched waists and fuller cupped tops are being mixed with modern pieces.

Ruffles, too, have found themselves adorning bikinis across the catwalks in another body-shaping trend. Frills and ruffles can add volume where you may be slightly lacking, perfect for balancing out the figure and sticking two fingers up to that diet book.

It’s all about getting you in the mood for a laze around on the beach or by the pool, so bright colours are a constant never-changing trend in swimwear. Designers cannot be as experimental with swimwear as they can lingerie or clothing; therefore the unique detail is often in the print!

And boy, are prints looking bold thanks to digital printing. The wonders of technology are allowing designers to update their printing methods, giving more freedom of detail and colour.

If there is one thing that causes swimwear to sell like hotcakes, it’s the promise of warm sands and tropical climates, so it’s no wonder that designers are channelling this straight into their prints. Sumptuous colours, exotic plants and parrots are everywhere, and we just love it. Our Digital Print Hummingbird bikini rides this trend without being cliché, using bright blues, purples, oranges and greens to inject that exotic look.

Walking hand-in-hand (preferably in the shade of palm trees) with the tropical trend are bold prints, inspired by various cultures and their traditional techniques, particularly those of tribal Africa and Native America. Digital printing is again a catalyst for this trend, but we also see designers using more traditional methods such as embroidery and crochet. We, too, were inspired by far-off lands for our Future Tribal Embroidery bikini, which contrasts a black bandeau bra and side-tie briefs with neon-bright ethnic embroidery.

Pin-up Queen; Bettie Page

Bettie Page; Pin-up Queen, glamour icon and underground bondage model. This surreal character crops up every now an again with an increased fan-base and a constant need to inspire the lingerie industry.

Secrets in Lace have been designing the Bettie Page lingerie collection inspired by her 1950’s photographs and stills making sure to remain true to the style of the era and the prints Bettie loved.

Playful Promises Boutique has been selling pieces from the very popular Bettie Page lingerie line for a while and the seamed stockings are one of our more popular items. We’re expanding the Bettie Page line to also feature online, but where does a pin-up’s career even begin?

Bettie Page always desired to be in the spotlight, she moved to New York after her first divorce to find work as an actress, but by day supported herself working as a secretary.

Whilst out walking one day she came across enthusiast photographer Jerry Tibbs. He put together her first pin-up portfolio and her career as a pin-up was launched.

By the 1940’s, pornography was illegal, therefore ‘camera clubs’ were invented to bypass the pornography laws. Bettie became a glamour model and camera club model posing nude on many occasions. Her lack of inhibitions brought her a great amount of work and landed her in men’s magazines of the era such as Wink, Titter and Beauty Parade.

Often the camera club models provided their own lingerie which has been an inspiration to many faux retro lingerie designers. Many pieces would have been made by the models themselves; in particular Bettie had a knack for combining fashionable prints with contemporary styling. An amazing insight into lingerie fashion of the era.

1952 was the year her pin-up career really begun as she worked alongside Irving Klaw who produced mail-order photographs. Here images of a pin-up, bondage or sadomasochist theme were produced and these images shot Bettie Page to stardom.

Bettie became a famous bondage model appearing in photographs, short-films and stills that Klaw’s customers requested. Although none of Klaw’s and pages work featured nudity or scenes of overtly sexual content they did feature fetish scenarios including abduction, domination, bondage, tying up and more. We’ll let your mind wonder.

Incredible lingerie fashions were used from tight leather costumes to lacy and silky nightwear as well as high-heel shoes and lace-up boots.

Furthermore Bettie appeared in several burlesque films made by Irving Klaw including Teasearama and Varietease. These films including dance routines and several striptease artists.

In 1954 a chance meeting whilst on holiday in Miami lead to a collaboration with Bunny Yeager. A model turned photographer, Bunny Yeager set-up a photo-session in a Florida nature reserve featuring two beautiful cheetahs. The ‘Jungle Bettie’ shots are some of her most celebrated images, she models a home-made leopard print bikini set as well as some renown nude shots too.

Bunny Yeager also set-up a photo session for images she later sent to Hugh Hefner, founder of Playboy. The image, of Bettie in a Father Christmas hat winking at the camera, was chosen to be ‘Playmate of the Month centrefold’ in the Playboy magazine in January of 1955. This feature led her to be voted as ‘Miss Pin-up Girl of the World’.

Although it seems Bettie’s modelling career was short-lived she was one of the most famous models of the period and her career lasted longer than most of the industry individuals. She retired from her pin-up career and became a born-again Christian.

Since the 1950’s Bettie’s images have kept re-surfacing creating a cult following and an ever growing fan-base. Books have been published and more recently biographies and films have been made.

Bettie herself was in and out of the lime-light but was rumoured to not have been earning any money from the images used. Her photographs, films and stills have inspired generation after generation and her bondage scenes are still sought-after.

If, like us at Playful Promises, you are mesmerised by this intriguing character then take a look at the Bettie Page inspired lingerie and stockings and perhaps you can create your own Jungle Bettie photographs!